EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

Chef Enrique Olvera: The Revolution of Contemporary Mexican Cuisine

Exclusive Interview with the Chef Who Transformed Mexican Gastronomy Worldwide

March 20, 2024
45 minutes
Mexico City
#Mexican gastronomy#Mexican chef#Contemporary cuisine#Pujol restaurant#Michelin Mexico#Mexican haute cuisine

Chef Enrique Olvera

Pujol Restaurant

🏆 World's 50 Best Restaurants🏆 Michelin Guide🏆 James Beard Award

Complete Interview Transcription

1

Chef Olvera, how would you describe the evolution of Mexican gastronomy over the past 20 years?

Mexican gastronomy has undergone an extraordinary transformation. We've gone from being perceived as 'fast food' to being recognized as one of the most sophisticated cuisines in the world. The key has been maintaining our pre-Hispanic roots while incorporating contemporary techniques. Ingredients like heirloom corn, chiles, cacao, and quelites now shine in Michelin-starred restaurants in New York, London, and Tokyo.

2

What do you consider has been Pujol's impact on the global perception of Mexican cuisine?

Pujol has been an innovation laboratory that demonstrates Mexican cuisine can compete at the highest international level. Our famous 'mole madre, mole nuevo' has inspired chefs worldwide to reinterpret their own culinary traditions. We've shown that you can be contemporary without losing authenticity, using products like heirloom corn, native chiles, and ancestral nixtamalization techniques.

3

How has sustainability influenced your culinary philosophy?

Sustainability is fundamental to our proposal. We work directly with local producers, promote the use of native Mexican ingredients like amaranth, chia, spirulina, and quintoniles. Our tasting menu changes seasonally to take advantage of fresh products. We also rescue heirloom varieties of corn, beans, and chiles that were in danger of extinction, contributing to Mexico's culinary biodiversity.

4

What role does technology play in contemporary Mexican cuisine?

Technology allows us to perfect ancestral techniques. We use sous vide to intensify mole flavors, employ controlled fermentation to develop umami in Mexican ingredients, and use liquid nitrogen to create innovative textures with ingredients like mamey, tuna, and pitaya. However, technology must always serve flavor and tradition, never replace them.

5

What is the future of Mexican gastronomy internationally?

The future is bright. We see Mexican chefs opening successful restaurants in cities like Paris, Milan, and Singapore. Mexican cuisine is being recognized for its complexity, regional diversity, and nutritional richness. Ingredients like edible insects, nopales, and pre-Hispanic superfoods are gaining worldwide popularity. Mexico will be recognized as a gastronomic superpower in the next decade.

6

What advice would you give to young chefs who want to innovate in Mexican cuisine?

My advice is to deeply know our traditions before innovating. Travel through Mexico, learn from traditional cooks, understand ancestral processes like corn nixtamalization, chile roasting, pulque fermentation. Authentic innovation comes from deep respect for our roots. It's also important to train technically in the best culinary schools and work in international kitchens to expand your perspective.

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